Outer Banks, N.C.
NPS Website; Local Website
WHAT IS IT?
70 miles of Outer Banks, N.C. barrier island beach and inlet habitat that follows along three long islands all in various stages of commercial development.
BEAUTY (7/10)
The Cape Hatteras NS consists of three islands, three lighthouses, three visitor centers. The northern-most VC and lighthouse is on Bodie Island, not far removed from the restaurants, mega beachwear retailers, supermarkets and motels of a vacation mecca. Five horizontal stripes, three white and three black, adorn the lighthouse.
Once you cross the bridge onto Hatteras Island, the commercialization disappears. The road narrows to two lanes and the traffic becomes sparser. The further south you travel the further away you get. To the west, inland ponds teem with marsh birds and migrating flocks. Just be careful of the high winds and voracious mosquitoes.
To the east, the rough Atlantic beckons with her siren song. Her inconsistent waves, her tidal whims and sneaky coastline have sunk many ships. Long strands of wind-swept beach host surf fishermen, sunbathers and rummaging shore birds. The road passes through small vacation communities vending only the most essential goods.
When you reach the black and white spiral patterns of the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, you have traveled nearly 50 miles directly southward. Here, the island takes a sharp 90-degree turn west past fishing piers and to the road’s end. A ferry transport is necessary to continue to Ocracoke Island.
The Island is reachable only via ferry and has only one small hamlet also named Ocracoke. The town is the only part of the Island that is not Park land.
HISTORICAL INTEREST (5/10)
Cape Hatteras’ Atlantic Coast boasts a rich history of ruthless pirates, lurking Nazi submarines and centuries of shipwrecks. Could another triad of historical topics sound more interesting? A few exhibits at the Hatteras Island VC scratch the surface but any in-depth learning is up to you.
CROWDS (8/10)
The Outer Banks are a vacation zone, regardless of the time of year. Everyone here is having fun and you cannot help but to join in.
Many of Hatteras Island’s roads were flooded. Watching massive high-clearance SUV and super-trucks timidly avoid the shallow puddles was rich comedy. Why purchase an off-road worthy vehicle if you are not going to have fun it? What about our proud Nissan Altima, you ask? It roared right through the standing water, defiantly asking for more.
EASE OF USE/ACCESS (3/5)
Cape Hatteras NS is 70 miles long, rarely stretching more than a mile in width. North Carolina Route 12 follows the Park for its entire length. Well, except between Hatteras and Ocracoke Islands where a free ferry is necessary for further travel. Cape Hatteras is our most accessible National Seashore; all its acreage located less than a mile from a paved road.
CONCESSIONS/BOOKSTORE (4/5)
The bookstores’ selection centers on lighthouses. Who knew people loved those shiny towers so much, as in lighthouse coffee table books, pen and ink sketches, calendars and jigsaw puzzles. We were more interested in the books about local history, pirate legends and ghost stories. Don’t worry if you left your bird identification book at home. The stores have many titles for sale to help isolate the tricky migrating dabbling duck in your binoculars.
COSTS (4/5)
Entry to Cape Hatteras’ many miles of public beaches is free. Beach camping is $20 per site. Seasonal tours and climbs of Cape Hatteras Lighthouse run $6 per adult.
RANGER/GUIDE TO TOURIST RATIO (3/5)
There were no Rangers at the Bodie Island, the VC closest to the Outer Banks’ population center, but many Rangers on duty at the other two VC’s. The volunteers at the Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge know their birds and will tell you where to look for unique or migrating waterfowl.
TOURS/CLASSES (5/10)
The second floor of the Hatteras Island VC introduces you to the barrier islands’ varied and engaging history. We did not expect much so we were excited to learn how Blackbeard used Ocracoke Island as a hideout and how German U-boats sunk American ships just off the Carolina coast during both World War I and II. The VC has a number of films with widely variant themes shown upon request.
FUN (8/10)
There is a lot of fun to be had at Cape Hatteras NS. Pick your island carefully. Bodie Island is the most crowded. You can find affordable lodging, restaurants and a typical beach vacation experience. Hatteras Island is easily accessible if you are staying on Bodie and offers a more nature-based vacation. The bird watching is terrific, particularly at Pea Island NWR, and there are miles and miles of isolated beach.
Ocracoke Island is very quiet. Some would say charming. There are bed and breakfasts, upscale restaurants and a local’s-first atmosphere.
WOULD WE RECOMMEND? (8/10)
Hard to imagine, but a great portion of the Outer Banks is protected National Park land. For thousands of years, these barrier islands have guarded the mainland from countless hurricanes. Thankfully, because of their NPS designation, these islands retain much of their time-tested natural protective power.
Do we recommend a trip to Cape Hatteras NS? Well, that is the same question as do we recommend a vacation to the Outer Banks. The answer is a resounding yes. We had a tremendous time, from the festive atmosphere of Nags Head to the rugged wonder of Hatteras Island to the quaint isolation of Ocracoke Island.
TOTAL 55/80
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© 2005