NPS Website; Local Website
WHAT IS IT?Site of the September 13-14, 1814 Battle of Baltimore. This War of 1812 fight and American victory was immortalized forever by onlooker Francis Scott Key in his epic poem “The Star-Spangled Banner” which, when set to music, became our National Anthem.
BEAUTY (8/10)
Fort McHenry’s red-brick pentagon-shaped fortifications sit on a peninsula that juts into the industrial but beautiful Baltimore Harbor. Grass-topped earthworks serve as a visual buffer between the Fort and the water. The green expanses please the eye, offer sunbathing opportunities and give kids a place to run around. A sidewalk borders the harbor allowing for picturesque walks.
Fittingly, the Site’s most striking aspect is its flag, a giant 15-star banner just like the one that inspired Francis Scott Key. The flag rises from the Fort’s interior parade ground to frame every picture, every vista and every thought.
HISTORICAL INTEREST (8/10)
Who doesn’t know this Site’s history? Carl Lewis, Robert Goulet, Leslie Neilsen’s character in The Naked Gun, Roseanne Barr and, by all accounts, the translators who worked on the controversial Nuestro Himno. Of course, the history of the Site is thoroughly detailed in the images and storyline of our National Anthem.
You know it, we know it and, while it may be hard to sing, it is unceasingly ubiquitous. We have memorized the words so thoroughly that it is easy to forget that the Anthem is a story, the story of the Battle of Baltimore and the successful defense of Fort McHenry.
The American victory meant important immediate consequence for the citizens of Baltimore: the British were not going to burn their city like they had Washington DC that April. Whether or not the victory changed the course of the War of 1812 is debatable. Fort McHenry’s historic significance and power comes through the indelible mark its story has ingrained into the American psyche via Key’s poem. We are stalwart defenders, our flag prevails, we are brave, we are free.
CROWDS (8/10)Swarms of same-aged kids clustered by camp T-shirt colors dashed in and out of rooms. Costumed volunteers readied themselves under canvas tents and around cannons. Casual visitors strolled through the grounds and admired the Harbor views. Fort McHenry was abuzz with happy activity this fine morning.
EASE OF USE/ACCESS (5/5)
The Fort is located a few miles from Baltimore’s Inner Harbor tourist district. If you are driving, take I-95, Exit 55 and follow signs. If you make a wrong turn, there are signs pointing you towards Fort McHenry on every street corner within 5 miles of the Park. The Site’s Entrance stands at the eastern terminus of East Fort Road. There is plenty of free on site parking.
About three pedestrian miles separates Fort McHenry from Baltimore’s other famous attractions: Oriole Park at Camden Yards, the National Aquarium, and the shops at Inner Harbor. Walking to Fort McHenry from these places is not recommended. The path passes an industrial zone which appears to be in the process of gentrification.
Frequent Water Taxis take passengers from the Inner Harbor to the Fort, or anyplace else around the Harbor. An all day pass costs $8 per adult, $4 per child. If you are staying in the Inner Harbor area (or do not wish to move your car) the Water Taxi could prove an adventurous, helpful and fun option.
CONCESSIONS/BOOKSTORE (3/5)
The Site’s bookstore specializes in the typical chintzy souvenir realm: shot glasses, coffee mugs, snow globes, T-shirts, magnets, etc... Everything in the shop is emblazoned with either the circa 1814 15-star American flag or an overhead view of the Fort’s pentagon shape. If you collect any of these tourist trap items, you are in luck. We left with a terrific magnet.
If you are looking for any books, War of 1812, Francis Scott Key or even Baltimore-themed, then you are out of luck. The store’s book choices are manageable but lean more towards the younger reader than the grown-up looking to learn.
COSTS (2/5)Entry is $5 per person 15 years and older. The youngsters get in free. All fees are waived when you flash your National Parks Pass. Add that to the Water Taxi price and things could get expensive.
RANGER/GUIDE TO TOURIST RATIO (5/5)
A young Ranger sporting a buzz cut greeted us at the VC and gave us a quick overview of the Site. He also explained the colonies of costumed interpreters – this weekend was a reunion for Fort McHenry NHS volunteers. There may have been other Rangers on site but it was hard to tell; there were more than enough knowledgeable folks wandering through the Fort.
TOURS/CLASSES (6/10)
An elderly Dr. William Beanes serves as narrator for the Site’s film. When he is not stuffing his pipe, tidying his papers or helping himself to a shot of brandy, Dr. Beanes recounts the British occupation of Baltimore and the events leading up to the Battle which served as inspiration to the famous song. The film is entertaining; the theatre is comfortable and air conditioned. Certainly worth a few minutes of your time.
At the Fort proper, almost every room is open for exploration, many filled with exhibits on the War of 1812, the daily lives of soldiers and 19th century Baltimoreans and, huzzah! An electric map!
A small cadre of soldiers paced the interior of the Fort, more intent on preening than participating in conversation. When they all marched towards the cannons, dislodged one from its settings and pulled it to a clearing outside the Fort, a group of observant visitors wondered aloud if we would be treated to a firing. No such luck. From what we could tell, a new set of recruits were learning and this was just a practice run. That explains their shyness, too.
FUN (9/10)
Dear readers, you know we love forts. Fort McHenry NHS is no exception. Gab and Michael have both been to Inner Harbor many, many times. Both have fond memories. But can you believe this is Gab’s first up close look at Fort McHenry? No longer the mysterious site talked about on the ½-hour Baltimore Harbor cruises, the mystical place where a young lawyer realized his poetic yearnings and churned out a tribute to a young nation.
No! Today Fort McHenry was real. We touched the cannons. We surveyed the Harbor. We took scores of photos of that Star-Spangled Banner waving o’er the land of the free and the home of the brave.
WOULD WE RECOMMEND? (9/10)Baltimore’s Inner Harbor is a perfect day trip from almost anywhere in the Mid-Atlantic region. Fort McHenry NHS provides an accessible historic compliment to your crab cakes and afternoon at the Aquarium. Or, in our case, day at Camden Yards. Don’t settle for seeing the Fort on the distant horizon from your harbor boat ride. Take a water taxi or a short drive to Fort McHenry to get a different view of the Harbor and some breathing room. Bring a picnic lunch and spread out on the Fort’s grassy lawn, or just relax and enjoy the one place in Baltimore that has free parking.
TOTAL 63/80
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