Sunday

DEPARTMENT OF INTERIOR MUSEUM

Washington, DC
Local Website

Pre-Parks
WHAT IS IT?
Museum dedicated to the history of the United States Department of Interior, the Cabinet department responsible for the administration of the National Park Service.

BEAUTY (4/10)
The Museum lives on the first floor of a federal office building, not exactly a good aesthetic sign.

Once inside the automatic glass doors, the Museum is nicely laid out, with a lot of open space and room to move between dioramas and displays, many of which feature maps and kitschy artwork from the museum’s and the Department’s early days.

HISTORICAL INTEREST (6/10)
Completed in 1936, the DOI building was the first building built by the FDR administration. From that point on, every National Parks and Department of Interior decision ostensibly occurred here. This may not be a particularly glamorous history, but the federal bureaucracy is what gets things done. Right?

Where’s Pennsylvania?CROWDS (6/10)
We were the only visitors to the Museum. Most likely a good thing since we vocalized our opinions about nearly every exhibit.

EASE OF USE/ACCESS (2/5)
The DOI Museum is located at the corner of 18th and C Streets NW, four blocks to the southwest of the White House or five blocks south of the Farragut West Metro station. Good luck trying to find parking within the restrictive metered mélange of 15-minute parking, diplomat-only parking and reserved for VIP parking. Spaces can be found, but good luck.

Getting into the Museum is a more arduous process than most DC landmarks. We waited for about 10 minutes to sign in at the front desk as an official visitor. After passing through the metal detectors, we had to wear an ID badge and restrict our movement to the bookstore and museum. None of this was unexpected or a problem; federal security restrictions are stringent nowadays.

FYI, if you want the NPS Passport stamp you either need an escort to travel to the 7th floor or (not sure how Gab pulled this off) need to have the 7th floor escort bring the stamp to the DOI entranceway where they will stamp your book. We never traveled up to the 7th floor which, we later read, holds copies of every single National Park Site brochure. Just thinking about that bounty elicits Pavlovian dog levels of drool.

The LocketCONCESSIONS/BOOKSTORE (5/5)
Not many sites can boast a registered historic landmark as their bookstore. The Indian Craft Store lies just across the hall from the Museum and serves as the Site’s bookstore and showcase for Native American arts and crafts from across the nation. The shop has existed in this location since 1938 and owes its landmark status to wall murals painted by Native American artists Allan Houser and Gerald Nailor.

Its small size is deceiving. The Store’s phenomenal cache of books related to every Native American craft and its graceful Sculpture Garden (all works are for sale) are not immediately apparent. Every possible display space is used yet the Craft Store does not feel cramped.

If you need to take a crash course on artwork indigenous to North America, come here. And bring your wallet. We could not leave without buying at least a magnet.

COSTS (4/5)
Entrance to the Museum and Craft Store are free.

RANGER/GUIDE TO TOURIST RATIO (1/5)
Would you believe us if we told you we saw no Rangers at the Department of Interior? Of course, we didn’t venture up to the Park Headquarters on the 7th floor. Like we said, you need to request a personal escort for that. And we couldn’t decide what we would do once we got up there.

TOURS/CLASSES (8/10)
Guided tours of the Museum and other parts of the Department of Interior building are available by appointment (202-208-4743). But we found the Museum to be self-explanatory. This museum is dedicated to interpreting how the Department of Interior has interpreted its constantly changing role in the formation of America.

Most of the museum’s ten galleries offer modern presentations of the dated displays which hung in the museum when it opened in the 1930s: these are, essentially, museum exhibits explaining what the museum exhibited.

L’Enfant’s GiftThis blend of 1930’s style dioramas and dated data with changing modern exhibits is familiar to us; we have seen it in many of the NPS Visitors Centers that are in the process of updating their displays. This process is usually long and drawn out since it is dependent upon federal funding. The difference, however, is that once the VCs acquire the needed money, it is understood that the old stuff will probably end up in a closet somewhere, not part of the new exhibit.

Maps of western expansion, projected plans and blueprints for dams and mines and explanations of the evolving U.S. presence in territories like Guam and the Marshall Islands mesmerized us. Do you know into how many places the Department of Interior reaches its fingers? It is no accident it is called the “Mother of all Departments.”

FUN (8/10)
Gab could have spent several more hours in the Museum’s air-conditioned halls, but then again she reads much slower than Michael.

The Museum’s guest book documents the range of responses it elicits from its limited number of visitors: “Fascinating!” “boring!” “A hidden treasure!” “VERY boring.” Looks like not everyone finds it as interesting as we do.

WOULD WE RECOMMEND? (3/10)
Only if you are captivated by the infrastructure of the federal government or are finishing a two-year journey of 380 National Park Sites under the purview of the Department of the Interior.

TOTAL 47/80

After Parks
www.usa-c2c.com
© 2004-06

KOREAN WAR VETERANS MEMORIAL and VIETNAM VETERANS MEMORIAL

Washington, DC
NPS Korean War MEM Website; Local Korean War MEM Website; NPS Vietnam MEM Website; Local Vietnam MEM Website; NPS National Mall Website; Local National Mall Website

The Wall
WHAT IS IT?
Two Memorials located on the western edge of the National Mall and Memorial Parks that honor the soldiers who served in two Asian wars fought between 1950 and 1975, Korea and Vietnam.

BEAUTY (4/10)
The Vietnam Veterans Memorial in undeniably evocative. The simple, diagonally shaped black granite wall etched with the names of the fallen has become the touchstone for modern War Memorial design. The Korean War Veterans Memorial’s copycat black wall confirms this notion.

While they are solemn, thought provoking and poignant neither Memorial is particularly beautiful. We wish, however, that the Korean MEM had further copied Vietnam Memorial’s minimalist simplicity. Instead, its mishmash of 19 haunting statues, diagonal black granite wall, Asian shrubbery, etched troop statistics, inscribed quotes and a shallow pool meant for quiet remembrance feels far too busy.

HISTORICAL INTEREST (7/10)
The 1982 opening of the Vietnam Veterans Memorial marked a profound shift in American historical commemoration. The National Mall is our country’s avenue of heroes, our tribute to lasting and eternal greatness. Until 1982, all of the Mall’s major memorials had been dedicated to individuals of genius and political impact: Ulysses Grant, George Washington, Abraham Lincoln, and Thomas Jefferson. Grand soldiers’ memorials had been reserved for the Arlington National Cemetery, located across the Potomac in Virginia.

Korean War MemorialThe Vietnam Veterans Memorial changed that line of thinking, reflecting a more populist historical vision. In its wake, America honored Korean War veterans in 1995 and World War II veterans in 2004 with their own tributes on the Mall.

You are not going to learn any specifics about either the Vietnam or the Korean War at their Memorials. The Memorials are both powerful abstractions. In fact, we overheard dozens of parents, some more eloquent than others, struggling to explain the circumstances and events of both Wars to their children.

The Vietnam Veterans Memorial Fund, the organization that generated the funds and political weight to create the Memorial in 1982, is currently raising funds to build a museum, the Vietnam Veterans Memorial Center, underneath the Memorial itself. On August 3, 2006 the National Park Service approved the proposed location. Actual construction is years away.

Perhaps upon the Museum’s completion, the American public and Memorial visitors will be able to achieve a better understanding of the events of America’s longest war.

CROWDS (7/10)
Hundreds of people move slowly along the Vietnam Veterans Memorial’s walls and alongside the life-sized soldiers of the Korean War Memorial. The sustained silence around the Vietnam Memorial is rarely punctuated by any voice louder than a murmur.

The Korean War Veterans Memorial aims for a similar reverence but doesn’t quite get there. Most folks pause briefly for a photo or two before moving on to the next site.

EASE OF USE/ACCESS (4/5)
The easiest way to visit is via the Tourmobile® Sightseeing buses. Your $20.00 per adult all day ticket drops you off in front of the both the Vietnam Veterans Memorial, the nearby Lincoln Memorial and every other National Mall-area attraction.

Vietnam War Soldier StatuesThese two Memorials are located on the western edge of the National Mall, just south of a dense conglomeration of federal offices. The more adventurous (or masochistic) tourist could find a metered street parking space among this mess of barricaded one-ways streets, diplomat-only meters and tricky diagonal intersections. We do not recommend it.

The nearest DC Metro stop is Foggy-Bottom-GWU, located three-quarters of a mile to the north at the intersection of 23rd and I Streets. This downhill concrete walk always seems longer than the distance indicates.

CONCESSIONS/BOOKSTORE (2/5)
There are no NPS bookstores dedicated to either Memorial; a very limited selection of titles can be found within walking distance at the Lincoln Memorial bookstore.

COSTS (4/5)
There is no entry fee. We missed free Ranger talks at both memorials by a few minutes.

RANGER/GUIDE TO TOURIST RATIO (4/5)
Several young Rangers were clustered together on the walkways between the two Memorials. More were stationed at the circular information kiosks adjacent to the Site. Rangers are there if you need them; you just need to seek them out.

TOURS/CLASSES (3/10)
What did we learn from our visits to the Memorials? With its prominently chiseled motto, the Korean War Memorial told us that “Freedom Is Not Free.” The engraved numbers adding up those who served, were wounded and died in the Korean War as well as the endless sea of names on the Vietnam War Memorial are a portion of the total bill.

We question whether one Ranger-led tour a day is sufficient given the amount of people who visit these Memorials, especially during the summer months. Perhaps the Memorials are meant to be more introspective than informative.

We asked one Ranger at an NPS kiosk about the proposed Vietnam Veterans Memorial Center museum that would be located underneath the current Vietnam War Memorial (see History). He knew of no such plans, but did direct our attention to the podiums lining the walkway which invited visitors to comment on the Memorial. He told us those papers were collected nightly and were archived with the intention of eventually displaying them. They have volumes.

Korean War Soldier StatuesFUN (5/10)
Reading the names of 58,249 Americans killed in Vietnam is not a fun experience. Neither is reading the engraved stats telling you 36,516 Americans died in the Korean War. Everybody has their own reasons for visiting these Memorials; carefree enjoyment is not one of them.

WOULD WE RECOMMEND? (9/10)
Unlike the sites dedicated to Lincoln, Jefferson or Washington, these two Memorials commemorate not only individuals but the collective effort of enlisted men and women performing duties on behalf of their country. The events are so current visitors usually don’t need to go beyond one or two degrees of separation to find someone they know who is memorialized here.

TOTAL 49/80

www.usa-c2c.com
© 2004-06

THOMAS JEFFERSON MEMORIAL and GEORGE MASON MEMORIAL

Washington, DC
NPS Jefferson MEM Website; Local Jefferson MEM Website; NPS George Mason MEM Website

Lonely Memorial
WHAT IS IT?
Two Memorials located at the south-central edge of the National Mall and Memorial Parks that honor the lives of two distinguished Virginian Founding Fathers.

BEAUTY (5/10)
The Jefferson Memorial is a mishmash of Roman architectural styles meant to recall Jefferson’s own designs. If you are looking for Jeffersonian brilliance, you are better off traveling to Charlottesville. His DC Memorial looks and feels too much like the Lincoln Memorial. Old TJ deserved better. Thankfully, every spring the surrounding Japanese cherry trees bloom and make even this tired neo-classical design look interesting.

The George Mason Memorial offers quiet charm. Its lovely flower beds encircle a path leading to a larger than life rendition of a seated Mr. Mason. George is surrounded by walls of quotes and flanked by personal affects and volumes of Locke and Rousseau.

HISTORICAL INTEREST (3/10)
This Tidal Basin-bordering, southern portion of West Potomac Park has always been an historic afterthought; its most important historic event being the 1912 planting of the first Japanese cherry trees.

Mason’s Digs CROWDS (6/10)
In Season Three of The Simpsons, the family travels to Washington DC where Lisa is a finalist for an essay contest. While visiting the Jefferson Memorial, TJ’s statue pleads with Lisa to stay because he is lonely. No one ever visits him. Things haven’t changed much since 1991.

George Mason, on the other hand, probably does not mind the sparse crowds. He looks content lounging in his personal trophy garden, reading the works of Enlightenment philosophers.

EASE OF USE/ACCESS (4/5)
The easiest way to visit is via the Tourmobile® Sightseeing buses. Your $20.00 per adult all day ticket drops you off in front of these two Memorials and every other National Mall-area attraction.

The nearest DC Metro stop is Smithsonian, located nearly one mile to the northeast. The long distance walk to the Jefferson Memorial is one of Michael’s lasting memories of his first trip to Washington, DC as a 10-year old. Which explains a) why the Jefferson MEM was his favorite (because it took some effort to get to) and b) why he never visited it again in the four years he went to school at Georgetown.

The Thinking Man’s MemorialCONCESSIONS/BOOKSTORE (3/5)
There are two stores underneath the Jefferson Memorial. One carries mostly touristy-type items, such as t-shirts, miniature memorials, ornaments and the like. The other side contains primarily print and audio/visual offerings. Both could use more substance. Like the Lincoln Memorial, the Jefferson Memorial also provides retail room for other DC attractions and monuments. Having been to Monticello, we know there is no lack of material discussing Jefferson, his accomplishments and even his peccadilloes. Why couldn’t we find them here?

George Mason doesn’t get his own bookstore.

COSTS (4/5)
Entrance to both Memorials is 100% free.

RANGER/GUIDE TO TOURIST RATIO (1/5)
We saw no Rangers in the Jefferson-Mason vicinity.

TOURS/CLASSES (4/10)
The superficial representations here of Messrs. Jefferson and Mason are not particularly desirable learning places, especially since both of their plantation homes are terrific tourist destinations and only a hop, skip and a jump from Washington, DC. Jefferson’s Monticello is 115 miles to the southwest in Charlottesville while Mason’s Gunston Hall is only 25 miles to the southwest near Occoquan.

FUN (6/10)
Why oh why did we leave the water bottle in the car? Our fun rating might have been higher had we not realized our thirst at what felt like the farthest distance from a Metro stop or street vendor. Luckily, crowds were not as thick here as at Lincoln’s and there were plenty of places to sit in the shadow of Jefferson’s greatness and cool off.

We spent only a few minutes at the George Mason Memorial but that was enough time to take in the scents of the summer blooms and speculate as to when a character named Mason would join the cast of Lost.

A Striking PairWOULD WE RECOMMEND? (6/10)
Every spring, the Jefferson Memorial takes center stage on the Mall. It serves as the perpetually stunning backdrop to the beautiful pink cherry blossoms. At all other times its serves as the least visited and most forgotten of the National Mall’s four white pillared compass points. Definitely visit the Jefferson Memorial during cherry blossom time. Visit here during the remainder of the year only if you are a National Mall Monument completist and have already purchased the Tourmobile all-day pass.

We enjoyed the George Mason Memorial but recommend it only to the super-completist. On the other hand, Mr. Mason is definitely enjoying an unexpected renaissance with this 2002-dedicated Memorial and the NCAA Final Four appearance of his namesake University. Who knows, perhaps in the near future Mason’s legacy will enjoy untold interest, patrons will flock to Gunston Hall and this Memorial’s beautifully landscaped flowers will become the subject of every tourist’s travel blog. Stranger things have happened.

TOTAL 42/80

www.usa-c2c.com
© 2004-06