Tuesday

ORGAN PIPE CACTUS NATIONAL MONUMENT

along U.S.-Mexico border, near Ajo, Ariz.
NPS Website

MusclemanWHAT IS IT?
330,000 acres of Sonoran Desert landscape that contain a variety of Saguaro cacti called Organ Pipe. The many fingers of the Organ Pipe Cactus sprout from the ground in a tight vertical manner. The Organ Pipe cacti do not grow in many other parts of the United States.

BEAUTY (7/10)
We had heard tales of the wildflowers in bloom at Organ Pipe Cactus NM – a once in a lifetime display. We prepared for a campground full of flower seekers and a stunning floral scene. There were plants and cacti in bloom, but they didn’t blanket the ground as in people’s hyperbolic descriptions, or like they did along state route 86 en route to the Site.

Beauty at Organ Pipe is of the desert variety. Rolling rocky hills covered with cacti and shrubs, punctuated by small birds and the unique Organ Pipes. Sunset had us circling the campground trying to capture that perfect Saguaro silhouette.

HISTORICAL INTEREST (4/10)
There are a handful of abandoned mines and early homesteading attempts within the Site’s boundaries. But it is its proximity to Mexico that makes Organ Pipe Cactus NM historically and currently significant.

Site materials explain that Organ Pipe Cactus NM lies along migratory trails that have been used for centuries. These same trails are utilized by undocumented aliens trying to cross into the United States.

The U.S. Border Patrol is active within the Site and is seeking increased motorized access through the backcountry and wilderness areas of the Monument, more paved roads and remote sensing equipment. Site visitors are made aware that there is border crossing activity and asked to report any suspicious activity or evidence of crossings they may see. We saw nothing suspicious during our day hikes or evening strolls around the campground.

Organ Pipe Cactus NM is unfortunately on the frontline of the United States’ war on drugs.

CROWDS (8/10)
The 208-site campground was filling quickly when we arrived. The fan shaped area separated large RVs and tents with a small RV, no generator zone in between. Walking around the campground is a hike in itself. As we walked along the Perimeter Trail, we noticed that everyone was sitting outside, talking, relaxing, enjoying the weather and their stay.

SunsetEASE OF USE/ACCESS (1/5)
The Site is about 150 miles from both Phoenix and Tucson. It is 90 miles south of Interstate 8, Exit 115 via Arizona Route 85. Route 85 is Arizona’s road to the beach, namely Puerto PeƱasco (a/k/a Rocky Point) a further 60 miles south of the border. Come weekends, the road and the National Monument get crowded.

All scenic roads at Organ Pipe NM are unpaved. In addition, many of the unpaved scenic roads at the Site experience “periodic closures” caused by what the website terms as “conditions”. The conditions are that the Park lies along the U.S.-Mexico border where drug trafficking and the crackdown on illegal border crossings have made the Park a veritable war zone. The Visitor Center is named after a Park Ranger slain in 2002.

We reckon that the scenic South Puerto Blanco will never open; it skirts within yards of the border for much of its length.

CONCESSIONS/BOOKSTORE (4/5)
There is no shortage of variety at the Site’s bookstore. Did you forget your hat? The store has a selection of wide-brimmed straw hats along with sunscreen and water bottles to protect you from the desert sun. Kids will enjoy the large stock of stuffed javalinas, turtles, coyotes, jackrabbits and tarantulas. Yes tarantulas.

White and green hand-woven baskets made by Papago Indians and Tohono O’Odham pottery are beautiful but not cheap. More affordable items include javalina-shaped cookie cutters, books specific to the Southwestern desert and your usual selection of nature guides, coffee table books and NPS paraphernalia.

Ocotillo BloomsCOSTS (2/5)
Entry is $8 per vehicle or free with the National Parks Pass. If you are entering via foot or by bicycle, the charge is $4 per person. We have no idea who would be entering such a remote National Monument via pedestrian modes of travel.

RANGER/GUIDE TO TOURIST RATIO (3/5)
You could spot a Ranger among the Student Conservation Association members and other volunteers if you looked closely. A hyperactive SCA student gave us a frenzied overview of what we could do at the Monument while an older volunteer led a 1 pm talk on the beauty of the cactus. Volunteers efficiently managed the campground. We suspect that most of the Rangers at Organ Pipe Cactus NM are utilized on the security and border patrols.

TOURS/CLASSES (4/10)
Ranger-led walks and talks occur frequently between January and March. We skipped both the volunteer-led talk on cacti and the evening slide show program at the campground. We feel pretty knowledgeable on Arizona cacti these days and the evening’s program was standing room only.

FUN (7/10)
We spent much of the afternoon deliberating whether we wanted to join the rest of the spring breakers at Rocky Point. Lukeville, the nearest legal point of entry to Mexico, is temptingly less than five miles away. With fresh bags of groceries in the backseat and no place to leave them, we decided to enjoy the day stateside.

There are hikes of various lengths and difficulty for those who prefer to see the desert terrain by foot rather than drive the unpaved scenic roads. After we set up camp, we easily filled the afternoon walking and bird watching and photographing. We were rewarded with some great shots, a hummingbird sighting and a hefty appetite.

Perfect camping weather, a lovely campground and friendly neighbors made this a very pleasant stay.

Organ Pipe CactusWOULD WE RECOMMEND? (6/10)
Some may find the location of Organ Pipe Cactus NM a deterrent. After our experience at Coronado NMEM we, too, were wary about being so close to the Mexican border. Not for fear of illegal immigrants; but of the hassle of heightened security. Our experience at Organ Pipe was much better than we anticipated.

This NPS site does not hide its problems and challenges from its visitors. It presents illegal immigrants not as criminals but as people seeking a better situation, not unlike those making age old migrations across the Sonoran Desert. That being said, undocumented crossings are illegal and must be addressed by the Monument. We found Organ Pipe to be doing an admirable job balancing its monitoring responsibilities and providing a safe and enjoyable park experience to its visitors.

The National Monument is one of the few places you will see Organ Pipe Cacti. If you are looking for some unique desert flora, a comfortable rest stop or a place to park your RV before venturing into Mexico, Organ Pipe Cactus NM is worth your time. If you would rather not think about U.S./Mexican relations or how much money is being spent stemming the tide of immigration, you may be more comfortable in the urban setting of Saguaro NP.

TOTAL 46/80

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