NPS Website; Local Website
WHAT IS IT?The densest collection of lava tube caves, caves formed by flowing lava, in the United States. The Site also includes an above ground lava flow utilized as a fortress by Modoc Indians in an attempt to repel an invading U.S. Army force. Bordering the Park’s north is the Tule Lake National Wildlife Refuge, home to an incredible number of migrating birds.
BEAUTY (6/10)
Lava flows and lava tube caves are cool looking but not particularly beautiful. Lava caves do not spawn intricate overhead formations; everything is black, jagged and rough. Outside the caves the towering blue sky of the high country California plain mesmerizes. Mt. Shasta’s conical peak looms in the distance and waterfowl soar above. The area feels isolated and peaceful; it is no wonder that the Modocs fought so hard to remain there.
HISTORICAL INTEREST (5/10)
Two infamous chapters of American history occurred in and around the Lava Beds NM area.
The 1872-73 Modoc War saw the indigenous Indians fight off the U.S. Army for nearly six months despite being outnumbered nearly 20 to 1. The Modocs, lead by Captain Jack, bunkered themselves within the impenetrable fortress of the area’s rough lava fields, of which only they knew the secret passages in and around.
The U.S. Army, acting in defiance of President Grant’s Indian Peace Policy, eventually captured and hung Captain Jack, largely due to internal Modoc treachery. The Park does a great job in explaining the history of the Modoc War; self-guided trails lead you in and around the Modoc’s remarkable defense system.
Tule Lake was also home to the most volatile of our country’s World War II Japanese Internment Camp. The Japanese-Americans that the U.S. Government deemed most dangerous were sent here. The Lava Beds NM discusses the Internment Camp’s history via Ranger talks and exhibits even though the Camp was not on the Park’s lands.We applaud their decision to address this difficult history; not all Park Sites make that choice. If you want to learn more about the WWII Internment camps, we highly recommend the Manzanar NHS, located some 470 miles to the South along U.S. Route 395.
CROWDS (8/10)
Where did all these excited people come from? Vanloads stood parked next to cave entrances while people of all ages grabbed flashlights and strapped on headlamps. Some had experienced blue jeans, helmets and knee pads and some looked prepared for little more than an afternoon stroll. But all looked eager.
Their beaming smiles revealed that lava tube caving is fun. Prior to our visit, Michael had been fully prepared to let his mild claustrophobia get the best of him. The he saw the spelunking crowds. They made him rethink his unadventurous spirit and he is very thankful.
EASE OF USE/ACCESS (1/5)
The Lava Beds NM is 45 miles southeast of Klamath Falls, Ore. and can be visit via a loop road off Calif. Route 139. Problem is that Route 139 is a veritable road to nowhere. No simple diagonal road leads from Interstate 5 to the Park Site, the 14,162-foot high Mount Shasta stands in the way.
If you want to visit the Lava Beds as a detour from a northward journey up I-5 (from Redding, Calif. to Lava Beds NM and back to Medford, Ore.), it will cost you nearly 210 net miles. Ouch. If your detour includes a jaunt up to Crater Lake NP, it might just be worth the time and miles lost.
CONCESSIONS/BOOKSTORE (3/5)Who needs a large selection of books? The Lava Beds NM bookstore sells what is important: large flashlights, small flashlights and helmets adorned with the Park’s logo. FYI, the Park lends out lanterns free of charge if you have forgotten your light source.
COSTS (3/5)
Park entry is $10 per vehicle, free with the National Parks Pass. We thought the price steep until we discovered the many exciting lava tube caves.
RANGER/GUIDE TO TOURIST RATIO (3/5)
We did not run into any Rangers during our brief stop at the Visitor Center but did run into a Ranger-led car caravan while on the Lava Cave loop. We read a Park flyer detailing a wide array of daily Ranger programs and give the Site the benefit of the doubt.
TOURS/CLASSES (7/10)
Ranger-led cave tours leave the Visitor Center daily at 2:00pm. A different cave is examined each day. You need a helmet if you travel with the Ranger. While we chose to explore on our own, dozens of others followed the Ranger down. 10:00am Ranger talks about various topics, included the Tule Lake Internment Camp, occur nearly every day.
The Park’s museum looks like a living room. The TV sits in a mock fireplace and you watch the video while sitting on a comfy couch. Interactive displays are found in a curio cabinet and the desk computer made us feel like we were at home… if we indeed had a home. The Museum is cute but not as fun as jumping in the caves themselves or as educational as walking Captain Jack’s Stronghold with the helpful self-guided trail brochure. Be sure to pick up the 14-page illustrated booklet at the trailhead; you will be lost without it.
FUN (9/10)
Michael was skeptical, Gabby was eager. Michael said he did not want to explore the lava tubes, especially not without a helmet. Gabby said she was spelunking regardless of his decision. And so we went, Maglite in hand, knees at full bend.
We had soooo much fun! We descended into Thunderbolt, Sunshine, Hercules Leg and Juniper. Why those? Because they were the only caves not already busy with fellow spelunkers; we had them all to ourselves. We did not go far, we stopped before we had to crawl, but our hearts raced and our excitement peaked. We did not care that we probably skipped the Park’s most fantastic and noteworthy caves.
The lava tubes are the Park’s main attraction but we had an equally great time watching marsh birds, including elusive rails, at the Tule Lake National Wildlife Refuge and learning about the Modoc Indian War at Captain Jack’s Stronghold. The Lava Beds NM boasts a terrific array of easily experienced fun all contained in a small, well-marked area.WOULD WE RECOMMEND? (4/10)
Even though we had a ball at Lava Beds NM, it is difficult to recommend it as a destination vacation and the Park’s remoteness demands this distinction. Lava Beds NM is destined to be a wonderful seldom-visited gem of a Park until either Redding, Calif. or Klamath Falls, Ore. becomes burgeoning population centers.
TOTAL 49/80
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© 2005